Women’s shirt

The linen shirt with pearls, worn with the festive attire of the Bug River or Włodawa, was made by Pelagia Łuciuk around 1910. The shirt is crinkled, that is, it consists of two large rectangular pieces of linen constituting its front and back. In addition, two narrower rectangles form the sleeves, and two much smaller rectangles, sewn into the top, join the front and back at the shoulders called ‘przyramka’. The shirt has a collar and cuffs. Its lower part, which was tucked into the skirt, is made of inferior material (it was called ‘naddołek’). It is embellished with perebros, sewn in place of the buttonholes, in the lower part of the sleeves and on the moccasins.

Trimmings, ‘pereboras’, also called ‘pribory’, ‘zabory’, ‘wybory’, ‘pasamony’, are a unique weaving ornament in Poland made with the technique of picking, creating a striped pattern, in which patterned parts are woven with plain linen; it was produced only in the north-eastern part of the Lublin voivodeship. Woven fabrics with an interspersed pattern were produced in a four-weave workshop, often with a shorter skid, due to the smaller width of the linen. The warp was linen or cotton-linen in white, and the weft, with which the pattern was created, was of woollen or cotton threads in red or maroon colours. Only black, navy blue or yellow thread was interwoven through the centre of the main pattern. Weavers from Lublin, creating ‘pereboras’, developed their own style of ornaments, which allows to distinguish them from those created in western Polesia. They were characterised by a clear belt arrangement, running transversely in relation to the warp threads in several rhythmically repeating arrangements. The ornament was compact and relatively symmetrical, with quite a lot of smooth stripes and simple ornamental motifs, which distinguished ‘pereboras’ created in the early period.